If practical, trailer your bowrider to the store, and ask the salesman to test-fit a couple different models within your price range. If not, take some detailed pictures of the bow area of your boat, and show these to the salesman.
Are you mainly a freshwater fisherman, or are you near an inlet where there is a mix of fresh and saltwater? Some warranties may be voided if you use your freshwater trolling motor in saltwater. Used trolling motors are not hard to find, but usually offer no guarantees of performance. Factory reconditioned trolling motors are a bit less expensive, but the selection may not be as great as the newer models. Larger boats, from 18 feet and up, need at least 70 lbs.
Larger trolling motors will also need more DC power, and usually a 24 volt, dual battery system will do the trick. Brands like Minn Kota provide great all-around trolling motors, and models like the 80 Bow-Mount Trolling Motor come with luxury features. There are many ways to mount a trolling motor on your bowrider, the simplest and least expensive being the screw-clamp-on-the-bow-rail style. In this method of mounting, the shaft of the motor has a plastic or composite block that clamps onto the stainless steel railing as close to the centerline of the boat as possible.
Securing the shaft to the railing is accomplished by tightening two large thumbscrews. A small lever controls the depth of the shaft, and another usually allows the motor to lay down either alongside the rail, or across the bow when not in use.
No bow rail? No problem. Make it a DIY modification , and simply create a small bracket out of a sturdy material, like Starboard, which is available at any marine surplus store. Use this block as a mounting bracket, as many motors are set up to clamp on to such a block. Sketch out a few designs beforehand, even forming a mock-up from heavy cardboard and duct tape before deciding on a design. This mount can be as simple or as complicated as your abilities allow.
Whether a plain wooden block or an elaborate stainless steel masterpiece, it will serve the same purpose — keeping your trolling motor on tight.
Several small holes may need to be drilled in the top most surface of the gunnel. Remember to use a good quality marine sealant in that area, and backing blocks or fender washers underneath, if the fiberglass is very thin.
Anything u would do differently? How long is your motor shaft? Thanks Thad. Or, keep it in forum others trying same thing may appreciate it. The cleat had a piece of wood glassed-in that the screws ran through and were then bolted. I basically did the same thing. I used a couple pieces of lumber that I cut down to size and pre-drilled maybe a quick coat of shellac, varnish, or primer to seal the wood , then ran the bolts and lock nuts through and tightened it down.
I don't remember if I used liquid nails or not to secure the wood to the boat, but I don't think so. I think they ranged from 1 to 3" I leveled the quick-release platform and then measured the height. Because it was not a flat surface the stand-offs were all different heights, and I compensated with SS washers and fender washers where they touched the boat. Diagonally so it rested on handrail on opposite side.
I included some new pics, but don't have any with motor on, sorry. Searay BR 19 Bowrider - 6. Yes, it worked with no problems. Trolling was perfect, except I could have used a more powerful motor, boat was heavy but actually that was ok. I had it at full speed when stowed, and no issues with that either.
The head of the motor was tied to the hand rail with a velcro strap when not being used, which kept it pretty snug and did not bounce much. Where did u put the batteries?
If you look at the picture with the dealt polisher, you can see the corner of the battery box in the photo.
That is exactly where is went. The bowrider has a seating and there is an anchor tucked under the very front. I permanently mounted a Battery Box Strap in front next to anchor storage.
In other words it sat just to the right of, and behind, the trolling motor against the flat edge- seen in picture. Not difficult. I didn't like drilling holes in the boat, so that took the longest time to make absolutely sure it was the correct location. A few thoughts on location: I wanted it to drop to the water so that it did not hit side of boat, I also had to be careful that it did not interfere with the snap-on cover on my boat, and wanted it to rest against the handrail on the opposite side so that it would travel nicely.
If you have a rail near the middle of the boat, then would simply clamp the motor to your rail. If you do not have a rail then you will need to bolt a bracket or a block fitted to the motor mount plate, onto the bow so you can slide the motor onto it securely.
If you are bolting in a bracket or block, you will need to do a few things before you bolt the bracket on. Here is a link to a YouTube video with the basic instructions. First, you need to figure out the best placement for your trolling motor, it is advised not to block the lights on the boat.
To find the best placement you should lay the motor out to see where it fits best on the boat. Once you have the placement figured out you should trace or mark the area some visible like a grease pencil, where you need to put the bracket.
While you have it laid out make sure it is in a place that gives you access to the foot pedal if your motor has one. Place either the bracket itself or a template if you are using an opaque block of wood or plastic as your bracket. Some brackets come with the holes already drilled but chances are the end of the bracket will have to stick out over the edge of the bow, so you may need to drill your own set of holes.
Use something straight like a pencil, hold it out under the part of the bracket that is sticking out to gauge the distance from the hull. Now that everything is measured and marked on the bow it is time to drill your holes for the bolts. After that cured I removed it and cut it to the shape of the Minnkota trolling motor quick release bracket then placed it back on the boat and used a level to see how high I need at each point from the highest point to create a level top platform Are used angled aluminum to create my stanchions to make the height that I need and all four corners to equal a level platform after that point I super glued on a piece of MDF three-quarter inch on the top of it to create that top platform After test fitting and making sure we were fully level still high then wrapped the entire piece with a sheet of fleece hot gluing it into place on the bottom.
After that point I use fiberglass resin directly onto the fleece to create a sealed resin shape of everything that I needed and then ground off the excess one secured on the bottom to keep my same flat bottom shape.
Dec 9, 2. Dec 10, 3. Nice quality work.
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